TIMELINE From the sky to the wrist.
A history of precision
More than five millennia of measuring time, from the shadow of a gnomon to the atomic second.
Chapter I · Act I — Reading Time
Shadow and Sky
c. 3500 BCE – 1st century
The first clock was a line of shadow; measuring time began with looking at the sky.
Before any machine, time was a shadow. Plant a stick in the ground and you watch its shadow swing round and shorten until noon, then lengthen towards the other side. The Egyptians raised obelisks and shadow clocks, and shared the daylight out into twelve parts.
The gnomon
Temporal hour I of XII · one hour = 60 min
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An obelisk at the latitude of Thebes (25.7° N), from sunrise to sunset. Geometric sun, no refraction.
- 1Gnomon
- 2Shadow
- 3Path of the tip
- 4Temporal hours
At sunrise the obelisk’s shadow is endless and points west. As the sun climbs, it shortens and swings round.
Its tip draws a different line on the ground every day: straight at the equinoxes, curved the rest of the year.
The Egyptians divided daylight into twelve hours, summer and winter alike: temporal hours, of varying length.
Change the season: in Thebes a summer hour lasts some 68 of our minutes, and a winter hour about 52.
Looking at the sky
3rd millennium BCE
Counting in sixties
Sumerians and Babylonians count in base sixty. Centuries later, astronomers will use it to divide the hour: hence its 60 minutes, and the 60 seconds of each minute.
c. 2150 BCE
Twelve and twelve
On Egyptian coffin lids, star tables split the night into twelve: the rising of each star, a decan, opens a part. With shadow clocks, the day will have its twelve too, longer in summer than in winter.
1479–1425 BCE
Egyptian shadow clocks
A graduated bar and a crosspiece that casts its shadow along it, bearing the name of Thutmose III: the oldest sundial known. It divides the day into ten parts, and two of twilight.
1st century BCE
Vitruvius and his dials
In Book IX of De architectura, Vitruvius explains how to lay out a sundial with the analemma, and lists thirteen kinds, most of them with the name of their inventor.
The Line of Precision
The error a day of each chapter’s clocks, on a logarithmic scale. The line moves on with the story: each chapter draws its own stretch.
The line begins in the next chapter: a sundial never runs slow, because it defines the time it shows.
End of chapter I
Shadow and Sky
Next II Water, Fire and Sand
Chapter II · Act I — Reading Time
Water, Fire and Sand
c. 1400 BCE – 14th century
People learn to measure time without the sun: by flow.
At night, or under a cloudy sky, the shadow is of no use. Time is then measured by what flows: water running out, wax burning down, sand falling. The sun is no longer needed, but the flow has to be steady.
The clepsydra
Hour I of the night
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Outflow clepsydra, in the proportions of the Karnak vessel (c. 1390 BCE). The marks are at equal intervals of time. The original has twelve columns of them, one for each month; one is drawn here.
- 1Vessel
- 2Water level
- 3Hour marks
- 4Jet
A vessel with a hole near its foot. The water runs out through it, and the level falls with the night.
But the jet weakens as the water falls: with less height above it, it runs out more slowly.
That is why the Karnak vessel flares upwards: there is more water to empty per hour at the top, and the level falls at almost the same pace all night.
Try a straight vessel: the hour marks spread apart at the top and crowd together at the bottom.
By what flows
c. 1390 BCE
The Karnak clepsydra
In alabaster, from the reign of Amenhotep III, found in pieces at Karnak in 1904. Inside, twelve columns of marks, one for each month, for the hours of the night: the oldest to survive.
3rd century BCE
Ctesibius of Alexandria
He bores the orifice in gold or in a gem, which water neither wears nor clogs. The water lifts a float, and a rack turns wheels that move figures and sound trumpets: the clepsydra becomes a machine.
c. 893
King Alfred’s candles
According to Asser, his biographer, the king of Wessex measures the day with six candles of twelve inches, marked inch by inch, that burn one after another through a day and a night. A lantern of wood and horn shields them from the wind.
1088–1094
Su Song’s tower
In Kaifeng, a water-driven astronomical tower some twelve metres tall: a wheel of 36 scoops advances in equal steps, each time one fills. Taken apart after the city fell in 1127, it was never put back together.
Al-Jazari
The Book of Knowledge of Ingenious Mechanical Devices describes water clocks and candle clocks, the elephant clock among them.
The sandglass
In Ambrogio Lorenzetti’s Allegory of Good Government, in Siena, Temperance holds one: the earliest known picture. About 1345 the clerk of La George, a ship of the English king, records twelve glass horologes bought in Flanders.
The Line of Precision
The error a day of each chapter’s clocks, on a logarithmic scale. The line moves on with the story: each chapter draws its own stretch.
This chapter’s precision
- Clepsydrac. 1390 BCE
- ≈ half an hour a day
- c. 1390 BCE: Clepsydra, ≈ half an hour a day
End of chapter II
Water, Fire and Sand
Next III The Escapement
Chapter III · Act I — Reading Time
The Escapement
late 13th century – 15th century
The decisive invention: a machine that divides time into equal beats.
In the late thirteenth century a machine appears in Europe that does not flow: it beats. A weight pulls a wheel round, and a mechanism stops it and lets it go at equal intervals. Water is no longer needed: time is counted in beats.
The verge and foliot
One beat every 4 s
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Verge and foliot escapement. The foliot has no rate of its own: it swings because the wheel drives it, and so it gains or loses with the pull of the weight. With its weights where they start, it beats every four seconds, like the restored foliot of Salisbury Cathedral.
- 1Crown wheel
- 2Verge and pallets
- 3Foliot
- 4Regulating weights
A weight on a cord turns the clock’s wheels. The last of them is the crown wheel, its saw teeth standing on its rim like a crown.
In front of it stands a staff with two pallets. One stops a tooth; the wheel pushes it and turns the staff.
The foliot turns with the staff. As the upper pallet lets its tooth go, the lower one catches a tooth on the far side: the wheel escapes half a tooth at each beat.
To regulate it, the foliot’s weights are moved: the further out they hang, the harder the bar is to turn, and the slower it beats.
A machine that always beats the same cannot stretch the summer hours by itself: it would have to be reset every morning and every evening. With the bells of the towers, in the fourteenth century, towns come to count equal hours.
12 + 12hours of day and of night, different every season
24equal hours, those of the town’s bells
The first clocks
Richard of Wallingford
The abbot of St Albans describes his abbey’s astronomical clock. Its escapement is not a verge but one of his own, the strob: two wheels on the same arbor. The clock is finished some twenty years after his death.
c. 1336
The hours of Milan
In the bell tower of San Gottardo a clapper strikes the bell as many times as the hour: once at the first hour of the night, twice at the second, up to twenty-four. So, writes the chronicler Galvano Fiamma, one hour can be told from another.
1348–1364
Dondi’s astrarium
In Padua, Giovanni de’ Dondi builds a clock with seven dials for the sun, the moon and the five known planets. His treatise holds one of the earliest drawings of a verge escapement.
c. 1386
Salisbury Cathedral
It probably had no dial: it was made to strike the hours on a bell. At the end of the seventeenth century it was given a pendulum, and in 1956 it went back to a foliot. It is said to be the oldest clock still working, though its date is disputed.
The Prague Orloj
The clockmaker Mikuláš of Kadaň and the astronomer Jan Šindel set up an astronomical clock on the Old Town Hall. Its dial still shows the unequal hours, as curved lines, beside the twenty-four of Old Czech time, counted from sunset.
The Line of Precision
The error a day of each chapter’s clocks, on a logarithmic scale. The line moves on with the story: each chapter draws its own stretch.
This chapter’s precision
- Foliot tower clockc. 1386
- ≈ 15 min a day
- c. 1390 BCE: Clepsydra, ≈ half an hour a day
- c. 1386: Foliot tower clock, ≈ 15 min a day
End of chapter III
The Escapement
Next IV Time in the Pocket
Chapter IV · Act I — Reading Time
Time in the Pocket
16th century – 17th century
Time becomes personal, and precision takes its first great leap.
A coiled spring takes the place of the weight, and the clock can travel. But a spring pulls hard when freshly wound and weakly at the end, and a clock given more force runs faster. Since the fifteenth century, one part has evened that force out: the fusée.
The mainspring and the fusée
Spring 100 % · train 100 %
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Mainspring and fusée. The fusée’s profile is calculated so the force on the train stays constant; the spring’s loss of force is illustrative. The oldest surviving clock with a fusée is one from Burgundy, of about 1430.
- 1Barrel
- 2Mainspring
- 3Cord or chain
- 4Fusée
Freshly wound, the mainspring presses its coils round the arbor and pulls with all its strength.
A gut cord carries that pull to the fusée, a cone cut with a spiral groove. From about 1650 a chain begins to replace it, as it lasts longer.
While the spring is strong the cord pulls on the small radius; when it is weak, on the large one. Like a lever that grows longer.
Take the fusée away: without it, the force on the train falls with the spring, and the watch changes rate through the day.
The myth
Peter Henlein invented the pocket watch in Nuremberg around 1510, and his watches were called “Nuremberg eggs”.
What the sources say
Henlein, a Nuremberg locksmith, was making small iron clocks by about 1511 that struck the hours for forty hours without weights, but nothing proves he was the first. The “eggs” come after his death: in 1571 a translation wrote Eierlein, “little egg”, for Ueurlein, “little clock”.
Christiaan Huygens invents the pendulum clock on Christmas Day 1656 and patents it the following year; the clockmaker Salomon Coster builds them. Precision takes its first great leap.
≈ 15 minof error a day, the best foliot clock
≈ 15 sof error a day, the pendulum clock
Personal time
c. 1550
Geneva and the banned jewellery
Calvin forbids the wearing of jewellery, and Geneva’s goldsmiths and jewellers turn to watchmaking, helped by Huguenot refugees. In 1601 the watchmakers found a guild of their own.
c. 1582–1602
Galileo and the pendulum
According to his pupil Viviani, a lamp swinging in Pisa Cathedral shows him that a pendulum takes the same time for every swing, wide or narrow. He puts it in writing in a letter of 1602. It holds only for short swings, as Huygens will show.
The waistcoat
Charles II of England sets a new garment at court, the waistcoat, as Samuel Pepys notes on 8 October. The watch, worn until then round the neck or pinned to clothing, moves into the pocket; tradition dates the change to 1675.
The anchor escapement
The oldest clock to have one, at Wadham College, Oxford, dates from 1670. It is credited to William Clement, and sometimes to Robert Hooke. It cuts the pendulum’s swing from some 90° to some 5°: pendulums a metre long, beating seconds, fit in tall cases.
The balance spring
Huygens gives the pocket watch a pendulum of its own: a spiral spring joined to the balance, built by Isaac Thuret. Hooke disputes his priority. The error falls from several hours a day to some ten minutes, and from about 1680 English watches gain a minute hand.
The Line of Precision
The error a day of each chapter’s clocks, on a logarithmic scale. The line moves on with the story: each chapter draws its own stretch.
This chapter’s precision
- Huygens’s pendulum1656
- ≈ 15 s a day
- c. 1390 BCE: Clepsydra, ≈ half an hour a day
- c. 1386: Foliot tower clock, ≈ 15 min a day
- 1656: Huygens’s pendulum, ≈ 15 s a day
End of chapter IV
Time in the Pocket
Next V Longitude
Chapter V · Act II — Making Time
Longitude
1707–1780
A matter of life and death at sea turns precision into an affair of state.
At sea, latitude can be read in the sky; longitude cannot. To know how far east or west you have sailed, you must know the time at your home port. In 1707 four ships of the Royal Navy are wrecked on the Isles of Scilly, and between 1,400 and 2,000 sailors die. Latitude and the charts were mostly to blame, but the disaster brings the problem of finding one’s place at sea to the fore.
Time is longitude
Noon aboard · H4 shows 12:00 Portsmouth time → 1° 06′ W
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The trial voyage of H4, from Portsmouth to Jamaica by way of Madeira (1761–1762). A schematic course along great circles.
- 1Greenwich meridian
- 2Meridians: one hour every 15°
- 3Deptford’s course
- 4The ship and its meridian
The Earth turns 15° an hour. Between two meridians of this globe lies one hour.
A clock that keeps the time of the home port tells, at the ship’s noon, how far the Earth has turned since: four minutes for every degree.
On 18 November 1761 HMS Deptford sails from Portsmouth for Jamaica with John Harrison’s H4 aboard, in the care of his son William.
After 81 days and 5 hours at sea, H4 is only 5 seconds slow: 1.25 minutes of longitude, about one nautical mile.
From H1 to H4
H1
, 62 cm tall
Five years’ work for a large sea clock with two linked balances: the ship’s rolling does not disturb it. On the way back from Lisbon in 1736 it gets the ship’s position right when the master’s reckoning was some 60 miles out.
H2
1737–1739, 68.6 cm tall
Larger and sturdier, 40 kg, with a remontoire that evens out the drive to the balances. Harrison finds a flaw in them and never lets it be tried at sea.
H3
1740–1759, 62.2 cm tall
Nineteen years of work, and its two large circular balances never keep time well enough. It leaves two inventions still in use: the bimetallic strip and the caged roller bearing.
H4
, 16.5 cm tall
A large pocket watch: 12.4 cm across and 1.45 kg. Its balance beats five times a second. “Velocity was very much wanting in my three large machines”, Harrison will write.
An affair of state
The Longitude Act
Parliament offers £10,000 for a method that finds the longitude at sea to within one degree, £15,000 to within 40 minutes and £20,000 to within half a degree. The Act sets up the Board of Longitude.
Pierre Le Roy
His marine clock brings together a detent escapement, a temperature-compensated balance and an isochronous balance spring: for the historian Rupert Gould, the foundation of the modern chronometer. Fame goes to his rival, Ferdinand Berthoud.
The other clock: the Moon
Nevil Maskelyne publishes the Nautical Almanac for 1767, with the Moon’s distances from the stars worked out in advance. Against the stars the Moon moves half a degree an hour, its own width: measured with a sextant, it gives Greenwich time. It will be used until about 1850.
1772–1775
K1 and James Cook
Larcum Kendall’s copy of H4, made for £450, sails with Cook on his second voyage. Cook calls it “our trusty friend the Watch”.
Harrison’s reward
At 80, Harrison is granted £8,750 by Parliament. In all he receives £23,065 for his sea clocks, £10,000 of it in 1765 as an interim payment for H4.
Arnold and Earnshaw
They develop and patent a simpler spring detent escapement and move temperature compensation into the balance. Marine chronometers will be built this way until the electronic era. They are expensive: the Royal Navy does not issue them to all its ships until 1825.
The Line of Precision
The error a day of each chapter’s clocks, on a logarithmic scale. The line moves on with the story: each chapter draws its own stretch.
This chapter’s precision
- Graham’s regulatorc. 1715
- a few seconds a week
- Harrison’s H41761
- 5 s in 81 days
- c. 1390 BCE: Clepsydra, ≈ half an hour a day
- c. 1386: Foliot tower clock, ≈ 15 min a day
- 1656: Huygens’s pendulum, ≈ 15 s a day
- c. 1715: Graham’s regulator, a few seconds a week
- 1761: Harrison’s H4, 5 s in 81 days
End of chapter V
Longitude
Next VI The Age of Genius
Chapter VI · Act II — Making Time
The Age of Genius
1750–1830
A handful of watchmakers invent almost everything that defines fine watchmaking today.
In less than a century, a handful of watchmakers solve almost everything that defines fine watchmaking today. Among them, Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747–1823) signs a list of inventions still made today.
The tourbillon
Second 00
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A tourbillon, after Breguet’s patent of 7 Messidor Year IX (26 June 1801). Here the cage turns once a minute, as most tourbillons do today, in step with your clock.
- 1Cage
- 2Balance and spring
- 3Escapement
- 4Fixed wheel
The balance swings and the escapement keeps it going. In a pocket watch, upright all day, gravity pulls the balance to one side.
Breguet mounts the whole escapement in a cage that keeps turning: the errors of each upright position cancel out every turn.
The wheel below is fixed: the escape pinion rolls round it as the cage turns.
The cage’s pointer marks the seconds of your clock. Stand it upright, as in a pocket, and watch it keep turning.
Inventions and masterpieces
c. 1754
The lever escapement
Thomas Mudge devises it about 1754 and first uses it in 1769. Improved since, from about 1900 it is in almost every portable mechanical timepiece.
c. 1780
The perpétuelle
About 1779 Breguet learns of Abraham-Louis Perrelet’s self-winding watches, of 1776 or 1777, and improves them: a weight that swings as the wearer walks winds the mainspring. He makes them until about 1810.
c. 1783
Breguet hands
In gold or blued steel, their points hollowed out off centre, like an apple or a crescent moon. Their name, like that of the Breguet overcoil, soon passes into the vocabulary of watchmaking.
The pare-chute
A sprung suspension shields the balance’s fine pivots from shocks: a shock-protection device.
The tourbillon
Breguet’s patent: the whole escapement turns to cancel out the effect of gravity on pocket watches, above all when upright. The idea is also credited to his friend John Arnold.
1810–1812
No. 2639
Ordered by Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, on 8 June 1810 and finished on 21 December 1812: a repeater in an oblong case, set on a bracelet, often cited as the first wristwatch. It is last recorded in 1855.
No. 160, “Marie Antoinette”
Ordered about 1783 with every complication possible, with no limit of time or cost. It leaves the workshop in 1827, four years after Breguet’s death, under the direction of his son Antoine-Louis. Stolen in Jerusalem in 1983, it is recovered in 2007.
The Line of Precision
The error a day of each chapter’s clocks, on a logarithmic scale. The line moves on with the story: each chapter draws its own stretch.
No new record in this age: the reference is still Harrison’s H4.
- c. 1390 BCE: Clepsydra, ≈ half an hour a day
- c. 1386: Foliot tower clock, ≈ 15 min a day
- 1656: Huygens’s pendulum, ≈ 15 s a day
- c. 1715: Graham’s regulator, a few seconds a week
- 1761: Harrison’s H4, 5 s in 81 days
End of chapter VI
The Age of Genius
Next VII Industry and Railways
Chapter VII · Act II — Making Time
Industry and Railways
1830–1900
Machines make machines; time is standardised for the whole world.
Machines begin to make watches, and trains begin to need them. When a single journey crosses dozens of different local times, time has to come to an agreement.
Railway time
Boston · 08:15
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Each station’s local mean time from its longitude, and zone time from the nearest standard meridian. A diagram: the line follows no real route.
- 1Track
- 2Station clocks
- 3Standard meridians, 75° and 90° W
- 4Train and its run
Before time zones, every town lives by the time of its own meridian: four minutes’ difference for every degree to the west.
A train from Boston to St Louis crosses almost twenty degrees: its timetable is written in one time and read in another.
On 18 November 1883 the railways of the United States and Canada adopt time zones: each clock takes the time of its standard meridian.
Switch to zone time: the clocks of each band agree, and between one band and the next lies exactly one hour.
Machines that make machines
c. 1839
Leschot’s pantograph
Vacheron Constantin turns to Georges-Auguste Leschot to make watches by machine. His pantograph drills all the holes of a plate, copying them from a brass template six times its size. It is a step towards interchangeable parts, which in practice come first in the United States.
Keyless
Patek, in Geneva, patents winding and setting by the crown, which Adrien Philippe had devised in 1842. On 7 December Ferdinand Adolph Lange founds in Glashütte the house that will bear his name, with fifteen apprentices.
Greenwich at every station
The Railway Clearing House decides that every British station should adopt Greenwich time. From 1852 the telegraph carries it from the observatory, and by 1855 almost every town keeps it. The law does not make it official until 1880.
Philadelphia
At the Centennial Exhibition, America’s Waltham shows the first automatic screw-making machine and wins the first gold medal for precision. Jacques David, sent by Longines, returns with a 108-page report: Swiss watchmaking has to change.
The Meridian Conference
In Washington, twenty-six countries choose Greenwich as the prime meridian, by 22 votes to 1; France and Brazil abstain. Contrary to popular belief, the conference does not create time zones.
Kipton, Ohio
Two trains collide because a railwayman’s watch had stopped for a few minutes. Webb C. Ball, chief time inspector, sets standards for railway watches: at least 17 jewels, lever setting and no more than 30 seconds of error a week.
The Line of Precision
The error a day of each chapter’s clocks, on a logarithmic scale. The line moves on with the story: each chapter draws its own stretch.
This chapter’s precision
- Riefler regulator1889
- ≈ 0.01 s a day
- c. 1390 BCE: Clepsydra, ≈ half an hour a day
- c. 1386: Foliot tower clock, ≈ 15 min a day
- 1656: Huygens’s pendulum, ≈ 15 s a day
- c. 1715: Graham’s regulator, a few seconds a week
- 1761: Harrison’s H4, 5 s in 81 days
- 1889: Riefler regulator, ≈ 0.01 s a day
End of chapter VII
Industry and Railways
Next VIII The Wrist
Chapter VIII · Act II — Making Time
The Wrist
1900–1945
The watch leaves the pocket and becomes both instrument and statement of identity.
For centuries a man’s watch belonged in a pocket or a waistcoat; the wristlet was almost always a woman’s jewel. Within a few decades it climbs to every wrist: first out of need, in the air and in the trenches; then out of choice. By 1934 Switzerland exports almost twice as many wristwatches as pocket watches.
From pocket to wrist
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A schematic transformation: no case reproduces any particular model.
- 1Case
- 2Bow and pendant
- 3Lugs
- 4Strap
A pocket watch: crown and bow at twelve, to hang it from a chain.
In the First World War, reading the time without letting go of anything matters: the case grows lugs for a strap.
The crown moves down to three, where the fingers reach it without taking the watch off.
And the case leaves the circle: it is drawn for the wrist from the start, like the Santos of 1904 or the Tank.
A statement of identity
The Santos
The aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont complains to Louis Cartier that a pocket watch is impractical in flight. Cartier makes him a flat one with a square bezel, to read the time without letting go of the controls. It goes on sale in 1911.
The Tank
Louis Cartier designs it after the Renault tanks he sees on the Western Front. By the end of the war almost every soldier wears a wristwatch; in 1919 the first six Tanks are made.
The self-winding wristwatch
John Harwood develops a wristwatch that winds itself and is set by turning the bezel, without a crown. The Swiss patent follows in 1924, and it is shown at the Basel Fair in 1926.
The Oyster
A case sealed against water and dust. In October 1927 Mercedes Gleitze, who has just swum the English Channel, wears one tied round her neck on a second attempt. She does not finish, but the watch holds out.
The Reverso
Some polo players ask César de Trey for a watch that can take the knocks. René-Alfred Chauvot designs for LeCoultre a case that turns over to protect the dial and the glass.
The Graves Supercomplication
Ordered in 1925 and delivered to Henry Graves Jr.: a pocket watch with 24 complications, the most complicated in the world until 1989. In 2014 it sells at auction for 23.2 million Swiss francs.
The Line of Precision
The error a day of each chapter’s clocks, on a logarithmic scale. The line moves on with the story: each chapter draws its own stretch.
This chapter’s precision
- Shortt-Synchronome clock1921
- ≈ 1 s a year
- c. 1390 BCE: Clepsydra, ≈ half an hour a day
- c. 1386: Foliot tower clock, ≈ 15 min a day
- 1656: Huygens’s pendulum, ≈ 15 s a day
- c. 1715: Graham’s regulator, a few seconds a week
- 1761: Harrison’s H4, 5 s in 81 days
- 1889: Riefler regulator, ≈ 0.01 s a day
- 1921: Shortt-Synchronome clock, ≈ 1 s a year
End of chapter VIII
The Wrist
Next IX Instruments of Adventure
Chapter IX · Act III — Owning Time
Instruments of Adventure
1945–1969
The watch follows us to the limits: the seabed, the sky and the Moon.
After 1945 the watch goes with whoever goes furthest: under the sea, in the cockpit, all the way to the Moon. An instrument is worn not for elegance, but because it works.
The chronograph
Chronograph 00:00.0
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A two-pusher chronograph with a 30-minute counter. It works: the time it measures is yours.
- 1Pushers
- 2Chronograph seconds
- 3Minute counter
- 4Small seconds
The pusher at two starts the chronograph. The same pusher stops it.
The central seconds hand, independent of the time of day, measures anything: a dive, a flight, a lap.
The counter at three adds up the minutes, up to half an hour.
The pusher at four returns the hands to zero, but only once the chronograph is stopped. Try it.
1969: the race for the automatic chronograph
· Apollo 11: a hand-wound chronograph reaches the Moon
El Primero
Zenith
- unveiled
- in the shops
integrated · 36,000 vibrations an hour, ten a second
The first high-frequency automatic chronograph. When Zenith’s owners drop mechanical watches for quartz, the watchmaker Charles Vermot hides the tooling in an attic. Rolex will use it in the Daytona from 1988 to 2000.
Calibre 11
Heuer, Breitling, Hamilton-Büren and Dubois-Dépraz
- unveiled in Geneva and New York
modular: a chronograph module on a micro-rotor calibre · crown on the left
The “Chrono-Matic” powers Heuer’s Autavia, Carrera and Monaco. With the module on top of the calibre, the crown sits on the left and the pushers on the right.
6139
Seiko
- on sale in Japan
integrated · column wheel and vertical clutch · 21,600 vibrations an hour
Seiko sells it quietly, at first only in Japan. It is the first to pair a column wheel with a vertical clutch, which starts the hand without a jump. One flies on Skylab 4, on William Pogue’s wrist.
ShownOn sale
Who won? It depends on what counts. Zenith showed it first, on 10 January; the Calibre 11 was unveiled on two continents at once on 3 March; Seiko sold it before anyone, on 21 May, though only in Japan.
To the limits
The diving watch
Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms, made with the French Navy’s combat swimmers, and Rolex’s Submariner, made from that year and shown at Basel in 1954, set the grammar of the diving watch: sealed to about a hundred metres, legible, with a rotating bezel to count the time under water.
Electric
Hamilton unveils the Electric 500, the first electric watch. In October 1960 comes Bulova’s Accutron, by Max Hetzel: a tuning fork at 360 hertz instead of a balance, guaranteed to a minute a month.
Chosen by NASA
After tests of heat, cold, vacuum, shock and vibration, NASA chooses the Speedmaster, introduced in 1957: it stayed largely within 5 seconds a day. It first flies on Gemini 3, on 23 March.
On the Moon
Buzz Aldrin wears his Speedmaster on the lunar surface: the first watch on the Moon. Neil Armstrong leaves his in the lunar module as a backup, because its electronic timer has failed.
The Line of Precision
The error a day of each chapter’s clocks, on a logarithmic scale. The line moves on with the story: each chapter draws its own stretch.
This chapter’s precision
- Essen and Parry’s caesium1955
- ≈ 1 s in 300 years
- c. 1390 BCE: Clepsydra, ≈ half an hour a day
- c. 1386: Foliot tower clock, ≈ 15 min a day
- 1656: Huygens’s pendulum, ≈ 15 s a day
- c. 1715: Graham’s regulator, a few seconds a week
- 1761: Harrison’s H4, 5 s in 81 days
- 1889: Riefler regulator, ≈ 0.01 s a day
- 1921: Shortt-Synchronome clock, ≈ 1 s a year
- 1955: Essen and Parry’s caesium, ≈ 1 s in 300 years
End of chapter IX
Instruments of Adventure
Next X The Quartz Storm
Chapter X · Act III — Owning Time
The Quartz Storm
1969–1985
A cheaper, more precise technology nearly destroys traditional watchmaking, and forces it to reinvent its purpose.
On 25 December 1969 Seiko unveils the Quartz Astron in Tokyo, the first quartz wristwatch. It costs 450,000 yen, about as much as a Toyota Corolla, and drifts only some five seconds a month: more precise than any mechanical watch and, soon, far cheaper.
Quartz
32,768 times slower · crystal at 1 Hz
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An analogue quartz watch: 32,768 = 2¹⁵ oscillations a second, halved fifteen times. The 1969 Astron ran at 8,192; 32,768 has been the standard since Girard-Perregaux’s calibre 350 of 1971. On screen, time runs at the speed you choose.
- 1Quartz crystal
- 2Divider, 15 stages
- 3Stepping motor
- 4Seconds hand
A quartz tuning fork rings 32,768 times a second when a current drives it.
A circuit halves that frequency fifteen times over: 32,768 is 2 to the power of 15.
The last stage gives one pulse a second, and a stepping motor jumps the hand.
Take the slider to real speed: the crystal becomes a hum, and only the last stages can be told apart by eye.
Before the 1970s Switzerland made half the world’s watches. Between 1970 and 1983 the number of Swiss watchmakers falls from 1,600 to 600.
90,000jobs in Swiss watchmaking, 1970
28,000in 1988
Reinventing the purpose
The Beta 21
The Swiss answer reaches the Basel Fair: a quartz calibre developed by sixteen houses. It comes from the Centre Electronique Horloger in Neuchâtel, founded in 1962, whose prototypes had competed at the Neuchâtel Observatory trials in 1967, alongside Seiko’s.
The Royal Oak
In the midst of the crisis, Gérald Genta designs for Audemars Piguet a luxury watch in steel, with an integrated bracelet and the exposed screws of a diving helmet. It is shown at Basel. In 1976 Genta does it again with Patek Philippe’s Nautilus.
The Swatch
Twelve models are unveiled in Zurich: a plastic case sealed by ultrasonic welding, conceived at ETA by Ernst Thomke, Elmar Mock and Jacques Müller. The name comes from “second watch”. That same month ASUAG and SSIH merge; Nicolas G. Hayek comes in in 1985, and in 1998 the group becomes the Swatch Group.
The G-Shock
Kikuo Ibe, at Casio, sets out to make a watch that survives a ten-metre fall, ten bar of pressure and ten years on one battery. The idea comes to him watching a rubber ball bounce. Quartz can be tough too.
The Line of Precision
The error a day of each chapter’s clocks, on a logarithmic scale. The line moves on with the story: each chapter draws its own stretch.
This chapter’s precision
- Quartz wristwatch1969
- ≈ 5 s a month
- c. 1390 BCE: Clepsydra, ≈ half an hour a day
- c. 1386: Foliot tower clock, ≈ 15 min a day
- 1656: Huygens’s pendulum, ≈ 15 s a day
- c. 1715: Graham’s regulator, a few seconds a week
- 1761: Harrison’s H4, 5 s in 81 days
- 1889: Riefler regulator, ≈ 0.01 s a day
- 1921: Shortt-Synchronome clock, ≈ 1 s a year
- 1955: Essen and Parry’s caesium, ≈ 1 s in 300 years
- 1969: Quartz wristwatch, ≈ 5 s a month (a reference, not the best instrument of its time)
Squares are wristwatches and chronometers, not the best clock of their age: the line rises with them because the chapter tells their story.
End of chapter X
The Quartz Storm
Next XI The Mechanical Renaissance
Chapter XI · Act III — Owning Time
The Mechanical Renaissance
1985–2010
The mechanical watch stops being necessary, and that is why it becomes desirable: culture, craft and art.
Once a cheap quartz watch keeps better time than any other, the mechanical watch is no longer needed. And that is exactly why it becomes desirable: for its craft, its culture and its art.
The calibre
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A mechanical calibre, taken apart on the bench. The wheels reproduce no particular calibre; their speeds are those of a train at 28,800 vibrations an hour.
- 1Barrel
- 2Going train
- 3Lever escapement
- 4Balance and spring
The barrel stores the energy: a mainspring that unwinds over days.
The train shares it out: the centre wheel turns once an hour, and the fourth wheel once a minute, carrying the seconds hand.
The escape wheel and the lever let it go in equal beats, like the foliot seven hundred years before.
The balance and its spring keep the beat: 28,800 vibrations an hour, eight a second. And everything goes back in its place.
Craft, culture and art
The co-axial escapement
George Daniels devises it in the 1970s and patents it in 1980; Omega brings it to market in 1999. It is one of the few new escapements since Mudge’s lever, and in theory its pallets need no oil.
Blancpain, again
Jean-Claude Biver and Jacques Piguet buy the rights to the name for 22,000 francs: “Since 1735 there has never been a quartz Blancpain watch. And there never will be.” In 1992 they sell it to SMH for 60 million.
The Calibre 89
Patek Philippe marks its 150th anniversary with a pocket watch of 33 complications and 1,728 parts, weighing 1.1 kilos. Five years of research and four of making; four are made.
The Lange 1
Walter Lange and Günter Blümlein had refounded the Glashütte house in 1990, nationalised in 1948. In Dresden they unveil its first collection: the Lange 1, with its off-centre dial and outsize date.
1999–2000
The independents
François-Paul Journe founds his house in 1999 under the motto “Invenit et Fecit”: he invented it and made it. In 2000 Philippe Dufour presents the Simplicity, finished by hand by himself.
Spring Drive
Seiko puts on sale in Japan a watch with neither escapement nor balance: a mainspring drives the hands and a quartz crystal brakes them to its beat, to a second a day. Yoshikazu Akahane had conceived it in 1977.
Silicon and fibre
Ulysse Nardin’s Freak has no dial and no hands: the movement turns on itself, and its escapement has silicon parts, a first. That year the RM 001 tourbillon opens Richard Mille’s house.
The Line of Precision
The error a day of each chapter’s clocks, on a logarithmic scale. The line moves on with the story: each chapter draws its own stretch.
This chapter’s precision
- Mechanical chronometer (COSC)2000s
- −4 / +6 s a day
- c. 1390 BCE: Clepsydra, ≈ half an hour a day
- c. 1386: Foliot tower clock, ≈ 15 min a day
- 1656: Huygens’s pendulum, ≈ 15 s a day
- c. 1715: Graham’s regulator, a few seconds a week
- 1761: Harrison’s H4, 5 s in 81 days
- 1889: Riefler regulator, ≈ 0.01 s a day
- 1921: Shortt-Synchronome clock, ≈ 1 s a year
- 1955: Essen and Parry’s caesium, ≈ 1 s in 300 years
- 1969: Quartz wristwatch, ≈ 5 s a month (a reference, not the best instrument of its time)
- 2000s: Mechanical chronometer (COSC), −4 / +6 s a day (a reference, not the best instrument of its time)
Squares are wristwatches and chronometers, not the best clock of their age: the line rises with them because the chapter tells their story.
End of chapter XI
The Mechanical Renaissance
Next XII Now
Chapter XII · Act III — Owning Time
Now
2010 – present
Handmade records, smartwatches and the atomic second now coexist; precision is no longer the goal, and still it advances.
Today the watch that takes years to make by hand, the smartwatch and a second no longer measured by looking at the sky, but by counting the oscillations of an atom’s radiation, all live side by side. The line that began as a shadow ends as a wave.
The caesium fountain
This flight: 0 oscillations
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A caesium fountain clock, in outline. The flight up and down lasts about a second.
- 1Lasers
- 2Cloud of atoms
- 3Microwave cavity
- 4Detector
Six lasers slow a cloud of caesium atoms to a few millionths of a degree above absolute zero, and toss it a metre upwards.
The cloud rises, crosses a microwave cavity, slows, and crosses it again on the way down.
If the microwaves oscillate at exactly caesium’s frequency, most of the atoms come back changed in state.
A laser makes them glow and a detector measures the light. It is repeated, tuning the frequency until they glow brightest: that frequency defines the second.
Since 1967 the second has been the duration of 9,192,631,770 periods of the radiation of caesium-133. These are the ones that have passed while you read this page.
Now
The first caesium clock
Louis Essen and Jack Parry set the first practical atomic clock running at the National Physical Laboratory in England. With it, Essen and William Markowitz measure the astronomical second in oscillations of caesium: that figure has defined the second since 1967.
The Grandmaster Chime
Patek Philippe marks its 175th anniversary with twenty complications in a reversible wristwatch with two dials. In 2019 a unique steel piece is auctioned for over 31 million dollars: no watch had ever sold for so much.
The smartwatch
The Apple Watch goes on sale. By 2019 more are shipped than Swiss watches of every brand together: some 31 million against 21, by Strategy Analytics’ estimate. The mechanical watch carries on, as an object of culture.
Galileo
Europe opens the services of Galileo, its network of navigation satellites. Each satellite carries four atomic clocks, two hydrogen masers and two rubidium: a receiver knows where it is because it knows what time it is.
The Berkley
Vacheron Constantin unveils in Geneva a pocket watch with 63 complications and 2,877 parts, after eleven years of work. It is the first with a Chinese perpetual calendar.
Farewell to the leap second
The General Conference on Weights and Measures decides that from 20 May 2027 civil time stops waiting for the Earth: no more leap seconds, and the gap with its turning may grow to an hour. Since 1972, 27 had been added.
The Line of Precision
The error a day of each chapter’s clocks, on a logarithmic scale. The line moves on with the story: each chapter draws its own stretch.
This chapter’s precision
- Caesium fountain2014
- ≈ 1 s in 300 million years
- Optical lattice clock2015
- ≈ 1 s in the age of the universe
- c. 1390 BCE: Clepsydra, ≈ half an hour a day
- c. 1386: Foliot tower clock, ≈ 15 min a day
- 1656: Huygens’s pendulum, ≈ 15 s a day
- c. 1715: Graham’s regulator, a few seconds a week
- 1761: Harrison’s H4, 5 s in 81 days
- 1889: Riefler regulator, ≈ 0.01 s a day
- 1921: Shortt-Synchronome clock, ≈ 1 s a year
- 1955: Essen and Parry’s caesium, ≈ 1 s in 300 years
- 1969: Quartz wristwatch, ≈ 5 s a month (a reference, not the best instrument of its time)
- 2000s: Mechanical chronometer (COSC), −4 / +6 s a day (a reference, not the best instrument of its time)
- 2014: Caesium fountain, ≈ 1 s in 300 million years
- 2015: Optical lattice clock, ≈ 1 s in the age of the universe
Squares are wristwatches and chronometers, not the best clock of their age: the line rises with them because the chapter tells their story.
End of chapter XII
Now
End of the journey